I ran some of this post before (the beginning is new). For me, as I continue to work towards a life of fewer, better things--which isn't always easy and a continual WIP--I need reminders. I also want to connect with you here, but don’t want every post to be a scrolling shopping list. I want to find other ways to discuss style and fashion without shopping being the constant factor. So....
We’re all allowed to change our minds, right? The first time I read through Phoebe Philo’s NY Times interview, I didn’t give it much thought, most likely because I haven’t been bowled over by her recent designs. But seeing some of her quotes from the story pop up here and there, sent me back for a reread and reconsider. I do think some of what (little) she has to say, resonates in the truest, somewhat uncomfortable way. If you truly believe in personal style and few, better, things, being ruthlessly selective about what you bring into your life should always be a goal.
“There may have been an expectation that I could have provided everything to everyone immediately,” she finally said. “And that’s just not possible. It takes time and effort to make most things that have meaning. One has to stand for something.” —Philo
It reminds of a quote I recently read in the Financial Time’s HTSI.
The best bit of advice I ever received was “be yourself to the absolute nth degree”. I think it was from my tutor at the fashion school.—Simon Holloway, Creative Director, Dunhill
Always reaching for whatever is “so you” and ignoring the extraneous is how you get there. Not easy, obviously, but practice makes perfect.
I also think this idea, when looking to acquire things, relates to “do it once, and do it right”. Don’t buy the four lesser versions of that cashmere sweater you want and know you would wear forever but can’t justify for whatever reason right now. Wait for it. I do find that more than ever, it takes me a long time to commit to buying things. I want to be sure that both the desire and wearability factor runs deep. This sometimes takes the joy out of shopping. But I also know when I’ve made the right choice and that ultimately feels surprisingly satisfying. Maybe joy doesn’t come from the shopping part; it’s the waiting patiently to discover the-right-thing-that’s-so-you part.
There is also an overload of unthoughtful design out there to weed through. So much feels like sloppy seconds, or random styles added, because a retail buyer asked “where is the newness?” There are some brands that understand the customer who wants a continuation on a theme, not a new “look” every six months. Phoebe is that kind of designer and I do think the succinct vision she creates speaks to that.
I continue to wear clothes today that I’ve had for 20 years. Once of my favorite pairs of trousers is a pair of Chloé trousers I made. They’re important to me, these pieces. I don’t want to get rid of them. So what we have now is a body of work over a year, and it’s all connected.—Philo
I am no Phoebe Philo, but a very personal, tightly edited vision of what I want to wear is how I approach my jewelry design. There are no “extras”, no pieces solely for price points, or specific customers in mind. Some designs are from my original launch and were designed almost 10 years ago; I still like them as much as I did when I saw the first sample.
Maybe you have what you already want the most? Are there more gems (literally/figuratively), more “ultimate” items sitting in your closet that you’ve been ignoring? In my second Substack post, I wrote about ways to curb impulse shopping and fetishize what you already have. I’m quoting myself here, but think these sentences sum it up. I also forget what I write, so it’s a good reminder for myself. “One could argue that every fashion shoot is either just a way to make the mundane appear exotic (the best stylists get stuck with the crappiest clothes for a reason), or emphasize desirable items to the point of mania. What happens if you do the same with what you already own?” It’s very hard to wean oneself off of the constant wardrobe update. If you’re reading this, like I read so many other Substack newsletters, you probably also enjoy the thrill of looking at design.
There is a funny anecdote in a book I am currently reading, Sempre Susan: A Memoir of Susan Sontag by Sigrid Nunez. In it Sigrid talks about how Susan chastises her for carrying a handbag, noting men don’t do it. Fine. But…and this made me laugh but also think, huh, she said Susan didn’t understand why anyone needed more than two pairs of underwear; wear one, wash them at night, rotate. Point taken.
Finally, this brings me to the repost segment. Below is from Phoebe’s Celine days. You can see that her design ethos has been a constant; it’s something I appreciate. Will I eventually add some Phoebe Philo clothing/accessories to my wardrobe? Who knows. But her instinct to develop designs slowly and deliberately, which swims against the demands for constant newness and evolution solely for the sake of selling more, is something to admire.
Old post: Recently when I went down a Pinterest rabbit hole, I found this 2015 article from Another Magazine called, "The 10 Celine-isms: Live Life the Celine Way". In my days as a magazine editor, I would have probably written an article like this, and the ideas in it have a lot in common with how I still like to think of style, clothing and its place in one's world.
Maybe it's age (though I also see plenty of younger women doing the same), but now more than ever, I want a uniform--a wardrobe with limited color choices and silhouettes, so there is consistency and a succinct, as rigorous as I can stand, point of view. I want my clothes to make me look good and feel good, I wanted pieces cut from the best (and ethically-sourced) materials, and I am only interested in items that will last...possibly longer then I'll want to wear them. I took screen shots of the story in case you don't want to click through and included the short list at the end; maybe it's something to keep on your phone as a reminder when you get fixated on something you know you don't need, or that is a waste of your time and energy (because an edited life is meant to be much more than clothes).
xx Jennifer
I don't usually comment, but I love your work and have to tell you how much I appreciate your writing. This hits all the points for me, this is how I want (striving to get there) live and shop. I love style and fashion and even the fun of being trendy at times, but now just trying to organize my closet to staple beautiful pieces that I love and treasure. I too wonder when is it enough? How many pieces that are similar do I need. In reality we need a few good pieces, but is that boring? And if I love shopping and seeing what's new but is that really necessary maybe my attention should go toward something else like going to art galleries (for example). Anyway love the way you dissect and talk about style and fashion. Thank you, love reading the pieces you write.
I’ve been an enthusiastic follower and reader for a few years now but don’t think I’ve ever commented . I don’t spend / shop at anywhere near the level that is indicted in your writings and by other commenters , but I appreciate it all nonetheless . One think I find a struggle to replicate at “ my level “ is waiting patiently to purchase the better item rather than “ making do “ with 3 less satisfactory ones . I think knowing that a piece will be available to buy months or even a year later is a privilege of shopping at the designer level . The mid range lines I can buy from change their offerings so quickly - that one has to act in same . Maybe I’m just not looking closely enough ? And lastly , I too appreciated PP’s comment about not being able to be everything to everyone ( or produce to that effect ) . I don’t love her new aesthetic but as a long time fashion student and lover , I still read and look and absorb . Thanks for the great read today !