The Designers Who Get What Women Want Win

An archive sale you don't want to miss + more randomness

I can’t remember the last time I went to a fashion show and I am glad I don’t have to anymore, though there are rare moments when I wish I had my old first (or second) row seat again. This week during the New York shows, it was Michael Kors’ show. The clothes weren’t super unusual, rather they were perfectly tailored examples of classic clothes you long to wear. Adding “older” models such as Amber Valetta and Malgosia Bella who come across as women instead of vacant-eyed 20-year-olds helps. But I loved it all—the suits, the slim belts, the classic slingbacks and ladylike handbags. It didn’t feel clichéd, it felt pulled together.

I have been catching up on Feud: Capote Versus the Swans the last couple of days and these are the ideas about both that are swirling in my head. First, on an aside, if you haven’t read Truman Capote’s last book, Answered Prayers, that includes the short story, La Côte Basque, that tanked his career and is the basis of the series, you should. The first short story about a NY hustler is the best (and so much more risqué in a way than things are now) and La Côte Basque was far more eviscerating (he was so ruthless about Jackie O.!) than the series implies.

That out of the way, when I first worked at Vogue, the swans were still often inspiration fodder for many designers and two books by Annette Tapert, The Power of Glamour and The Power of Style (co-authored by Diane Edkins) that have chapters on Babe Paley, Slim Keith, C.Z. Guest and many others were like reference books for my writing for the mag. These monied women really pulled themselves together at all times. Looking good was part of their job. But, and this is what I have been thinking on, designers designed with these women in mind. Designers spent time with their clients, got to know them personally, and created collections that echoed these interactions.

Michael Kors backstage from @Vogue

That is what made Michael Kors the colossal success he is today, days upon days spent with “his ladies” in dressing rooms, figuring out what worked and what didn’t for them (he was always the best interview and best quote). Sure, he’s gone off track now and then, but I think this is why his latest collection feels so right, because it speaks to what women want to wear.

But how many designers do that kind of legwork anymore? Some of them, Phoebe Philo most famously, might as well be ghosts. Getting to know your customer seems key. It shouldn’t water down your design ethos, but inspire it. I also think that’s why fashion reviewers (notably Vanessa Friedman on NY Times and Cathy Horyn at The Cut), don’t get or like Khaite. Sure, some of the shapes of clothing are exaggerated in a way that I don’t appreciate, but maybe that’s my age speaking (and maybe other’s too?) I do think the designer Catherine Holstein gets what women want and she delivers—great jeans, excellent cashmere, a couple of well-tailored pieces, cool but wearable shoes. Apparently her sales volume is about 3 times that of Proenza Schouler, but people don’t want to give her the credit she deserves. That said, I do wish she would be more available presence-wise. Women don’t just relate to clothes, they relate to the designers behind them (maybe even more).

Another tie-in with the Swans/Kors idea is getting dressed with polish. We have kind of lost the art of turning up turned out. I am ready to bring it back, even if it means adding a red lip and proper handbag to your suit with sneakers look. Some days it’s hard to rally, but when I make an effort I always feel better. I know I harp on this often, but I do feel like we are moving in that direction. I hope.

Other designers/brands that I think design with women in mind (and whose aesthetic obv syncs with mine) include Toteme, Maria McManus, The Row (somewhat), Alaia, Another Tomorrow.

And an end note on this topic. Swans are a thing of the past. Women who marry money and whose sole job is to take care of their partner’s acquisitions and help raise money for charity are out there, but they are more private. The majority of women who somewhat fit that bill today that make headlines, typically have very strong careers to boot. I much prefer today’s iteration.

---

On another note, you know how much I love Nells Nelson designed by Sisi Li. Sadly, Sisi is pausing her business for the foreseeable future. She had a serious health event that made her rethink moving forward (thankfully, she has recovered and will better than fine). For now she is prioritizing her well-being and happiness, instead of being under the constant stress that is sadly an integral part of the fashion cycle. So, she is having a major archive sale end of this month. There will also be someone there to take Zoom appointments (book with Deb above) for those cannot shop in person. I will definitely go and closer to the date I will let you know when I will be there. Nells Nelson designs have become integral to my wardrobe, I will miss the newness, but if Sisi decides to return to the fray you will be the first to hear about it!

---

Lastly, two fun reads…..

This feature on the unapologetic, still sexy at 69, Carine Roitfeld in HTSI. (Do you think she gets the correlation between back pain and refusing to wear anything but heels? Even more so, do you think she cares? Non. Pas de tout.)

This funny “Purse Personalities” in NYMag. What kind of personality mashup am I if I have a The Row Margaux and the Uniqlo Banana Bag? (Also, does that mean I can finally have the Deeda Blair hair I always wanted? I am actually one step closer, but more on that next.)

xx Jennifer

Follow me on Instagram @theflairindex. Some links are affiliates, and I may earn a small commission from them.