Happy October! I am getting trunk show ready as you read this and am also leaving for a trip next week to San Fran and areas north which I am looking forward to. I thought I would have a packing list for you by now, but I started one, scratched most of it, and decided I needed to rethink how to wear and pair certain pieces together because I wasn’t inspired with my first go round. Stay tuned for that and eventually details of the trip (staying at Sea Ranch Lodge, which is like minimalist CA paradise.)
My favorite idea from the S/S 2024 shows was the use of off colors. Perhaps that’s not the right description, but it is the idea of adding a shot of the palest lemon sorbet, or a dusty blue, or mixing cement shades of grey and beige. I loved the pops of red at The Row; I didn’t realize the shoes which I initially liked were jellies, so not sure I’m going to fork over a lot for rubber shoes that make my feet sweat. I might need to find my red pop somewhere else. (I will get some together to share soon, I promise.) But a pop of red is easy—and doable now. What I found more intriguing, which also started showing up last Spring, is the mixing of shades of kind of weirder pastel colors, as well as textures. My favorite examples are from Carven, a show that is also getting a lot of buzz. It is the inaugural season for designer Louise Trotter who had been at Lacoste before and it was styled by Parisian Suzanne Koller (ok….side note….for those who follow Suzanne’s IG and those speedy videos she did a few months back, there is now one on the holding page for Phoebe Philo….so maybe there is something going on here? Love the idea of that collaboration.) Anyway, what did I love about the show? The mix of hard and soft (tailored wool jackets/chiffon skirts) and the random yellow bag, or pale blue sliver underneath black, the red pendant over beige on beige (all the beige is a SK signature). Last Spring, my dream outfit was a pale lemon coat from The Row with a white tee, jeans and this butter colored Paseo bag from Loewe, which I quite like in the khaki (more like army green) as well. The bag and coat weirdly never materialized.
It also reminds me of this photo from photographer Zoe Ghertner with those pale citrus boots (I think Bottega), another pale blue bra and khaki trench. Valerie Laberichel posted this on her IG months ago (maybe I wasn’t the only one in love). Miu Miu also had pops of color but brighter. But why not tangerine and burgundy and a red shoe?
I think adding color the right way means personalizing it. It has to look almost offhand, not intentional, as if you found something you love so much, you wear it with everything regardless of whether it goes. I find buying these types of things hard because you can’t find them, they have to find you, but when it happens, they can be the most rewarding purchases.
You don’t have to wait to do this either, you could work these colors for fall if you’re so inclined. John Patrick Organic has a gorgeous lemon silk skirt that Becky Malinsky has been wearing that caught me eye. I love it, but I know it wouldn’t make it out of my closet. What I might immediately purchase however, is some lingerie from Araks; they have a really good eye for those not normal shades. Not that anyone is going to see much of it if I wear it, it’s about as subtle as you can get. I think these colors will find a way into my Spring wardrobe. A bag (I hope). Maybe shoes too.
For now, it is making me rethink how I’m pairing my Fall colors together. Since I’m adding brown (see below) as a sweater, perhaps I need a chocolate or burgundy bag to balance it. Or a bit of rust. Pale yellow and gray are always good.
What did make it into my Fall wardrobe are these two pieces from COS. I thought I wanted their classic cashmere crew, which I posted, but then I tried on this cable knit turtleneck. It’s a good kind of crop (meaning everything is covered and it’s just below the belt line), I also liked the belled sleeves. Going to wear it with black trousers and those Alaia leopard flats IF THEY EVER SHOW UP.
Then, I had added to cart this elegant The Row Polli coat, which is a perennial, because pea coats are a thing for the season (I have an old YSL fitted one which is still superb), but I liked this looser fit and the stealth buttons. But then I found this.
I am usually about the OG design, but sometimes when the OG is $2850 and the other is $285, I choose the more affordable option. The COS coat is a bit more A line on the end. (FYI—was doing jewelry runs, so apologies for unbrushed hair, no makeup look.) I don’t consider a coat like this a flagrant knock off, I would a standout handbag, but no one has reinvented the wheel with this design.
On another note, one my favorite designer resale/vintage sites, Resee has a new group of The Row clothes. (They are based in Paris but have an easy return policy, just check the item you’re interested in is available for return.) So you could get more for less. And lastly….
I love it when I’m not the only one feeling something as these women at the Paris shows prove (from left, Jo Ellison of FT, Emmanuelle Alt and I cannot identify the other two chic ladies…anyone?) Not that a Canadian tuxedo look is at all unusual this time of year, but when I posted about it a couple weeks ago, and finally went through my closet over the weekend, I realized I already have a vintage Wrangler denim shirt. That is the first thing on my Cali packing list!
x Jennifer
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Great read! I've been eyeing that COS coat for a few weeks now, but can't decide between a S and M. I want to be able to comfortably wear it with some chunky cashmere roll necks, but still look polished. Would you say it's a generous oversized fit?
Hi, did you find something like that in Max Mara? Because no a lot of coats in black this year...