Edited + Exquisite: My Wardrobe Motto

To be applied broadly. Plus shoes that fit that bill and Polly's influential edited vision.

To prove that I am indeed a woman who loves clothes (and that old fashion editor habits die hard), I have started to loosely pull together a clothing/accessory wish list for fall. Before I share it, as it still needs something thinking, I did create an over-arching theme that at this stage in my life, which includes the state of my closet, is how I am viewing anything additive to what I already own in virtually every aspect of my life.

Honestly, I could never shop for clothes again for another 10 years and be more than fine and pretty well turned out at that, especially when it comes to my fall/winter wardrobe. I have plenty of favorite pants, more vintage Levi’s than I can rotate through, gorgeous coats and some very nice cashmere sweaters. I have very few missing items that I need to fill in. Maybe shoes?

Because of this, my shopping strategy is shifting in two ways. First, I am being more ruthless than ever about adding anything unnecessary, mediocre, or not well made. Second, anything that comes in, unless it’s a replacement, needs to be exquisite.

I want pieces that tug at my emotional heart strings, designs that stand out in their detail and craftsmanship. It can be an of-the-moment piece as long as I can assure myself I will want to wear it long after it’s officially in vogue. Because that is the point with buying exquisite pieces—investments are meant to become part of your style, not the other way around where your style ebbs and flows with the latest expensive designer must have or interior decor style.

Polly Mellen by Avedon, 1975. Note the timeless outfit.

Somehow memories I have of former fashion editor, Polly Mellen (who recently celebrated her 100th birthday), came to mind when thinking about this. Polly was still at Vogue when I was there, then went on to Allure and eventually did some freelance work for Glenda Bailey at Bazaar where I worked with her (and she must have been in her mid/late 70s). We are not going to dive into how Polly seemed to have a new assistant every 6 months when I was at Vogue; the attitude of many senior editors during that era would not fly today and has thankfully changed. At the same time she was fashion’s biggest fan and would often stand at the end of a runway show, when everyone else was still seated, applauding vigorously and yelling “bravos” to the designer. No one else could match her energy. Part of her brilliance as an editor was her unswerving rigor that was applied to her work and the way she dressed.

I remember her coming into Bazaar (the straightest posture ever, always) and taking off the most exquisite, understated Azzedine Alaia chocolate leather belted coat. Fit was important to her and always neutral shades and one or two well-appointed accessories. She most likely had all the best fashion at her fingertips, but she wasn’t a rotating fashion show, she kept a narrow, regimented focus. And she had an eye for those “ultimate” pieces that are meant to stay in one’s wardrobe forever.

Polly photographed by Steven Meisel, Interview Magazine, 2010 (age 86!)

I do feel that today’s fashion circus and constant churn has made the opportunities for designers to create those kind of exquisite pieces fewer and farther between. (Also, many now are more akin to creative directors who are better at imagery than designing clothes on women’s bodies.) That said, beautiful items can be found. They are also, increasingly, sometimes shockingly expensive. Even my short list will unlikely get filled this season. That’s ok, I don’t lack for anything. It’s just a question of deciding what happens now, and what happens later, which may determined in a more kismet manner when the said “exquisite” item suddenly appears.

On that note, I have found one item that would definitely make my list but might be sold out by then. These croc-effect Manolo Blahnik mules. For me, the black makes the most sense with my clothing, but the brown is equally gorgeous. These feel very 90s and I will admit I am glad Manolo is delving into some archive pieces, because they are exactly the kind of dressier shoe I want. I do have a few pairs of 90s/2000 era Manolos, but sadly two pregnancies changed my 7 1/2 to an 8 and most no longer fit. Some things need replacing.

x

Jennifer

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