Clothes with Soul
An addendum to An Edited Life
I have thoroughly been enjoying the thoughtful comments from readers on my last post. Thank you! They matter more than you imagine. And after a conversation with my husband last night and reading an article this morning, I feel like there is a continuation to this story.
I was explaining to my husband what I wrote about, and how weird fashion can be these days. There are the rare designers like Phoebe Philo, who is lucky and frankly brave enough to step back, reassess and then relaunch with her own label, and approach to it in a way which has been atypical to say the least. Then I mentioned that designers like Dries Van Noten and Pierpaulo Piccioli of Valentino just stepped down. Maybe it’s because they no longer want to be part of a system that values handbag and beauty sales over creativity and craft. Too many fashion companies are now too big to fail; they need fast fixes when designers play musical chairs (Gucci being the latest example) so that these big conglomerates can continue to post record sales. And many smaller fashion houses that receive backing (because most need it) lose what made them stand out in the first place because metric-driven COO’s and marketing teams eventually dull the integrity of the brand.
The best designs have soul. It is hard to put into words exactly what I mean, but I am sure you, like me, can instinctually tell when something is from the heart, versus something that is just made to sell. I can see it in anything and everything—from art to beauty to furniture to clothing to jewelry. There are certain creators who have a point of view they want to share; they appreciate and draw inspiration from the process of creation and there is evidence of this creative energy in their designs.
It was Vanessa Friedman’s article today in the NY Times, Is Humanity Out of Fashion?, that had me shaking my head in agreement. Here is a snippet….
Before I read this, my husband commented last night that perhaps the fashion number crunchers are getting it wrong. Meaning, they are going after the wrong data, the data of memes and “is this on trend”, when perhaps the data that matters most is the emotive response customers have from the designs.
I am glad there are enough stubborn designers out there willing to stay true to their ideals. I also applaud Dries and Pierpaulo for leaving on a high note, being a designer these days on that level is stressful and demanding. I do sometimes wish that fashion houses would only exist as long as the original creator was a part of them. It might make the designs more meaningful. Sometimes the new partnerships are successful, but I think too many companies think designers are more expendable than they truly are.
And as much as I will try to be thoughtful about bringing fewer, better things into my life, I also want those things to embody some of that creative spirit that makes them so appealing.
xx J
Follow me on Instagram @theflairindex. Some links are affiliates, and I may earn a small commission from them.
Totally agree. The thing is, there are so many designers brands now that the overwhelm of shopping becomes a bit stressful even. There is too much choice and when you love clothing and the fantasy that it provides, of either looking a certain way or feeling a certain way, it's hard not to be distracted. And I guess that's the marketing point to make us want more even when we don't need. Its like there are two directions: one we become more conscious of our choices (hoping I reached this point) the other is what is being thrown at us from every angle that we need this to be in the "stylish club." I was thinking yesterday after reading your newsletter that I wish there would be an online retailer (not that we need another one, maybe a rebrand), but one that specialized in timeless pieces that women want. Maybe a choice few designers and a few pieces from those collections that are times-less in sense of style, construction and quality. Simple pieces that our children can enjoy as vintage pieces after us. A well curated place where you go to find that one piece you want to invest in every season that helps you build a concrete base that doesn't make you question or say I have nothing to wear.
It seems every creative industry is suffering under the desire to make things less creative, or quickly consumed, superficial, whatever. I saw a reel recently about how showrunners for TV and film are now telling writers that their complicated scripts aren't "isn't second screen enough." Meaning, audiences are now watching movies and TV while also scrolling and reading email. Thus, the plotlines must be simple, not too deep, easily understood while someone is doing something else. That's just sad. No one wants to invest in substance and quality anymore.